Julia Priest's Coach For Canines

Now Accepting PayPal

2012-01-20T09:13:00.000-08:00

Nona, Abbie and Bailey hang out in the play area

CGC Test January 21

2012-01-08T21:20:00.000-08:00

Congratulations to our new Canine Good Citizens, Smokey ( Rottweiler) and Levi ( Golden retriever) Our tester Lynn Potts was impressed with the temperaments of all the dogs. New classes begin Jan 30 for those interested in the next test session.

New! Planned Puppyhood

2011-12-16T09:07:00.000-08:00

Is your new puppy too young for group class but you want a great head start? Or just want to look like the smarty pants in class? Come for three private lessons one on one with your new puppy: Everything you need to know to get started right. Housebreaking questions, leash training, learning how to learn sit, down and respond to your name. Then when puppy has had two sets of vaccines ( usually by 12-18 weeks) he or she comes to group puppy class for more socialization and skills.
For puppies 8 weeks to 20 weeks .

Three private lessons plus group class when ready....
$295

Some evenings available and midweek and Saturdays by appointment.

Family members welcome at private lessons, but children must be directly supervised

Classes Offered

2011-12-03T07:58:00.000-08:00

All classes conducted at
Coach For Canines 24313 Kennefick Rd., Galt

Junior Puppy Class: a "First Class" First Class

Beginner obedience and manners for puppies 15 weeks and younger. Essential socialization with other dogs, animals and people plus introduction to leash manners, sit, down, come, stay. Baby agility equipment and learning games for puppies.

Senior Puppy Class
More challenges, beginning heeling, recalls, go to place, crate games and stays with distractions ( Goats and chickens!) For puppies 16-24 weeks

Six weeks $145.

Call (209) 367-4901 to register or Contact Julia

Beginner Obedience Class

For puppies and dogs any breed 6 months and older. Leash manners, greeting behavior ( dogs and people) sit, come, stay, lie down, and fun games and interaction with other puppies. Advice from an experienced breeder and trainer who has raised puppies for the last 25 years. If your puppy has done it, I have seen it and probably have a good way to fix it. Puppies learn to pay attention to you, not just your treats, and how to behave with people and other dogs in a socially acceptable manner. Beginning heeling, recalls, stays, and polite greeting all with plenty of distractions and stimulation.
Six Weeks $145

Canine Good Citizen Class

Instruction and practice to prepare for the ten skills of the AKC CGC test.

Basic manners and socialization in a fun atmosphere. Sit, Come, Down, Stay, loose leash walking, polite greeting ( no jumping up) and calm dog interactions are emphasized. Dogs over 6 months which have already completed a basic or puppy class and have basic leash manners with no serious aggression issues.

Six weeks $145 call or email to sign up

Call (209) 367-4901 to register or Contact Julia

AKC Beginner Novice Class

Introduction to Ring Procedure and Obedience Competition

For those interested in learning how to show their dogs in

AKC Obedience Trials.

Basic skills, tips and practice for success in earning obedience titles. Transition to off
leash heel work, heel position, fronts and sit for exam.

Exercises from the Novice and Beginner Novice levels of competition.

More advanced lessons (Open and Utility) available.
Six weeks $145

Canine Good Citizen Class

2011-11-08T15:58:00.000-08:00

Join our CGC class and learn how to pass the test for your certificate. This is recommended for any dogs headed for Therapy work, as well as basic good manners for every pet.

Polite greeting ( Dogs and People)
Short sit stay, down stay and polite leash walking
Accepting friendly stranger
Supervised separation
Reaction to distractions
Accepting handling and grooming
Coming when called

E-Mail k9julie@earthlink.net to reserve your spot for Spot. For dogs over 16 weeks which already have basic leash manners, current vaccinations, and no aggression issues. If your dog needs a basic beginner class first, please contact me to arrange help.

CGC Class $145 for 6 weeks

A Word About Vaccines

2011-10-19T09:18:00.000-07:00

Some owners are confused about how many shots their puppy needs before attending class. While there are different vaccines for different diseases ( Parvovirus and Distemper being the most common and dangerous ones to puppies,) all of these need to be administered in a series, usually beginning at 7-8 weeks. Puppies which were vaccinated younger than 7 weeks are considered not to have had a shot since it was likely ineffective at that age, and your vet will probably recommend starting the series over.
So, if your puppy was vaccinated one time with each of 4 different vaccines, its still considered to have had only one "shot." In order to be effective the vaccines must be administered at three week intervals over a period of 9-12 weeks.

Rabies vaccine is required by state law for puppies over 4 months of age. You should decide with your vet which diseases you want to vaccinate against, but Parvo and Distemper should be given in the series in order to attend public classes, and then a booster at one year. This is to protect your puppy as well as other puppies in the class. Hope that helps.

Guests Of The Month

2011-09-10T21:03:00.001-07:00

Golden retriever "Ginger" likes to stretch her

legs and supervise the tennis balls when she comes to stay

Shetland sheepdog puppy "Rachel" lectures Nona about water safety

New Fall Classes

2011-09-10T20:56:00.001-07:00

Puppy Class
For puppies 15-24 weeks. Introduction to basic puppy manners, sit, come, down, stay and polite greeting. Socialization, confidence building fun and exposure to livestock.

Six weeks $120
Saturday October 1, 9:30 a.m.

Beginning Competition Class

For those who have had some basics and want to learn about showing in competitive obedience. We will focus on correct heel position, attitude and focus in the work and introducing ring procedure as well as solidifying stays and recalls

Six weeks $120 Saturday 10:30 a.m.
(Starts Sept 17 with a break - no class Sept 24 - resuming October 1.)

Canine Good Citizen Class

For dogs or puppies who have already had a beginner class or lesson interested in earning the AKC CGC Certificate

Six weeks $120

Drop In Workshops

2011-07-04T12:24:00.001-07:00

For my students and for trainers who want to work on competition skills in a ring setting.

I will have ring set ups and run-throughs for all levels of AKC obedience and can coach schutzhund obedience as well. $10 to drop in, set up and work your dog . If you want feedback and help, just ask. Confirm the day before by phone or e-mail and let me know how many dogs you would like to work.

Photo by Gayle Oxford

Congratulations!

2011-02-26T15:36:00.000-08:00

Our Saturday Puppy Class boasts four new graduates: Rottweiler T Rex, Golden retriever Harley, miniature Schnauzer Max and Belgian tervuren Alfie all completed their graduation exercises with flying colors. We use a Star system for rating performance on six basic skills: Sit, Stay, Walking on leash, Polite greeting, coming when called, and Down.

One star indicates more practice is needed, two stars means the puppy can complete the exercise with help ( leash, food, extra commands or signals) and three stars means the puppy can do what is asked the first time without extra help. All puppies earned three stars in most exercises and had fun learning new things and playing with their pals. Congratulations to all. Next Stop: Canine Good Citizen or Beginner Novice Class.

Congratulations: Two New Canine Good Citizens!

2011-02-09T09:41:00.000-08:00

Our CGC ( AKC Canine Good Citizen) test at Coach For Canines on Saturday Feb 19 was blessed with a break in the weather and with storm clouds gathering, two new Canine Good Citizens emerged.

Golden retriever "Bauer" with his handler Jamie Weisz passed with a nice performance and excellent "stay" and "supervised separation" skills. Sandy Musgrave's Doberman Pincher "Riley" demonstrated his good temperament and control under exceptional distractions. ( His playmate Jessy the German Shepherd was whining and calling to him from the sidelines, while a small puppy demolished a plastic water bottle in her pen. Very noisy.) AKC Certified Tester Lynn Potts was pleased and impressed with both dogs and awarded them their CGC Certificates.

The CGC is the stepping stone to obedience competition training and is proof that you have spent the time to teach your puppy or dog good manners, making him welcome in public and a credit to himself and to you. For more information on classes and tests, please

Contact Julia

Best Puppy Class Ever!

2011-01-08T15:08:00.000-08:00

Coach For Canines

Puppy Class

Class begins Saturday January 23, 2011 10:15 a.m. - 11 a.m.

Puppies 6 months and younger learn to socialize properly, greet people and dogs politely, come when called, walk nicely on leash and sit, lie down and stay on leash. Small class size, lots of individual attention. Baby agility equipment. Learning and fun for dogs and their people.

Must have proof of current vaccinations and be free of parasites.

Pre- Registration only

Call (209) 367-4901 to register or e-mail Julia

Coach For Canines 24313 Kennefick Rd., Galt

Groomers' secrets revealed!

2010-12-15T10:08:00.000-08:00

One of the nicest things you can do for your dog — and yourself— is to begin training and exposure to the professional services he may need while he is still a puppy, especially if you have a breed that will need regular professional grooming.

My friends who are groomers have given me insight into how clients become "preferred" and how others become "Sorry, I can't help you now."Poodles, "doodles" Old English Sheepdogs, and any dog with a lot of coat should see a groomer on a regular basis. Even if the breed is purported not to shed ( which all dogs do, by the way) the hair does fall out. If it doesn't fall on your floor, it stays in the coat and gets matted. If you wait until the dog is large and a mess before going to the groomer, you will pay, and so will the dog. Dogs whose coats are severely matted, in poor condition and are difficult to handle cost a lot more to groom.

All dogs will have occasion to visit a veterinarian . Shots, parasites, accidents and surgery are some reasons even healthy dogs will see a vet. If he is comfortable being handled, he will have an easier time and your vet can do a better exam and treatment.

While the dog is still a puppy, start to teach him to accept handling. You don't need to clip him or shave him, just teach him with gentle repetition in small increments that a tool like a clipper or comb will come near him and sometimes touch him, and that's not a bad thing. Pick up the tool, with the puppy on your lap. Pet and talk to him while bringing the tool up so he can sniff it. The exposure should just be a few seconds. Then give a tiny treat and praise.

While he is on your lap, pick up each of his little feet in your fingers and gently squeeze while petting and praising with the other hands, and again a tiny treat magically appears after each foot is touched. Work up to having the tool touch the feet one at a time, making this a positive experience. Do the same while gently restraining him and handling each ear, rolling him on his back to pet his belly, and last, while he is in an upright position, gently restrain him and put your hand under his chin, palm up while you close the other hand over his mouth. Slip a thumb and finger on either side of his muzzle and open his mouth just for a few seconds so you can see his teeth and gums, praising and petting at the same time. After a few seconds of handling tell him "All done!" and give a small treat. He'll begin to look forward to his grooming sessions.

If you start small and make each time a pleasant one by the time your dog needs to go to the groomer or vet for an exam, he will be comfortable and much easier for everyone to handle. One more tip: If groomers are good, they have full appointment books, and some have waiting lists of a month or more to get in. Everyone thinks their dog needs a bath and clip right before the holidays. So, take some time to form a relationship with your groomer and don't expect them to drop everything for you at the last minute. Book your appointments well in advance. And if your dog is one with good manners and a regularly maintained coat, you are more likely to get that spot that "just opened up" after all.

Specialized Services: Aggression Problems in Dogs

2010-10-07T08:39:00.000-07:00

I get many calls from owners who have trouble with their dogs displaying aggression: biting, snapping, growling , lunging, and other concerning behaviors. Whether this is directed at other animals, strangers, or family, its unpleasant and sometimes dangerous to live with.

I offer solutions to many of these issues through training and behavior modification. There is no simple fix or "magic bullet" that will instantly change your dog, but you'd be surprised how much you can improve his behavior through this program.

This can get better. You can save your dog.

if you have problems with aggressive behavior in your dog,

Please call (209) 367-4901 or e-mail e-mail Julia

Brags and Awards

2010-08-10T15:07:00.000-07:00

After a brilliant career in Schutzhund (Regional and National placements and wins) our Nick Nik has entered the AKC Obedience arena. In his first showing he earned first place blue ribbon in Novice B with a 198.5 and High Scoring German Shepherd dog. Winning was so much fun we think we''ll do it again.

Nick took High in Trial both days at Reno Kennel Club, finishing his CD with a Front and Finish Platinum Obedience Award. For good measure he took first place in Novice B and Graduate Novice at Gold Country Kennel Club on Sept 4.

Nick started his Open career with a first place at the GSDCA Nationals in Farmington, UT. Open leg #2 was a first place also at San Joaquin KC in Stockton Thanksgiving weekend.

Photo by Steve Southard,

Group Dog Training Classes

2010-07-04T13:33:00.000-07:00

Beginner Novice Class

Introduction to Ring Procedure and Obedience Competition

Wednesdays 7 p.m.

For those interested in learning how to show their dogs in AKC Obedience Trials.

Dogs must have completed a primary class or be able to heel, sit , stay and come

at a beginner level to go on to competition level

Improve basic skills such as fronts, heel position, stays with distractions,

handling tips and practice for success in earning obedience titles.

Exercises from the Novice and Beginner Novice levels of competition.

More advanced lessons (Open and Utility) available.

6 weeks $120

Grrr-r-r-r-oup Hug

Specialized 12 week program for reactive / "dog aggressive" dogs.

We will work in a safe, controlled environment to relieve your dog's anxiety and reactivity

to other dogs.

10 weeks $350 Limited to six dogs

Canine Good Citizen Class

For young dogs and puppies which have completed Puppy Class to prepare for the AKC CGC test. Basic manners and socialization in a fun atmosphere.

Six weeks $120

Call (209) 367-4901 to register or Contact Julia

Five Things Every Dog Should Know

2010-05-31T11:10:00.000-07:00

If your dog can master these

concepts, you'll have a well behaved dog that is a pleasure to be around. If your dog "needs work" in some of these areas, please call us for help. Its easier than you think to teach good manners.

• Sit: You can't jump on someone or get on the counter or bolt out the door when you are sitting.

• Down: Lie all the way down without my pointing to the floor. I might have an armload of groceries. And stay there until I release you. Its a safety thing.

• Wait: An open gate or door is not an invitation to bolt. Its a big scary world out there. Let me check it out before you go.

• Come: Now. Not when you are done sniffing the other dog, or playing with the sprinkler, or "being distracted". Right here. Right now. And....

• Don't Pull On The Leash. We should be able to go for a walk without building my biceps.There is no excuse for pulling on the leash, ever. Unless you're a tracking dog.

( For those interested, Tracking Classes are available.)

New! Beginner Novice Class

2010-05-31T09:05:00.000-07:00

Heel! Jump! Front! Find! We will be offering a new intermediate level class which introduces elements of AKC Obedience Competition, Rally-Obedience sport and a taste of other dog sports. If you have completed some private lessons, a basic or puppy class with us and are interested in learning new skills and having fun with your dog and — maybe, just maybe — some day entering a trial, please join us for this fun and exciting class.

Call or email for details.

Board and Train- Let Julia do the work

2010-05-15T13:19:00.000-07:00

Tired of your dog jumping all over people, dragging you down the street and running out the door every time you open it? How about that crazy barking at the doorbell on TV? Send your dog to Coach For Canines for our On Leash Special training session. Your dog will stay here and have obedience lessons every day along with exercise and socialization. He will learn to sit, lie down, and stay on command; walk nicely on leash, wait at doors and gates, load into the car, and respond promptly to his name in three weeks - whether you offer him a cookie or not! How do I do it so fast? I am really, really good. All training is done personally by me. With my more than 22 years of experience in pet training and successful high level competition, I know how to train and communicate so your dog understands and listens.

Pick up and delivery available in the Galt and Lodi area. • Longer programs for more advanced training available.

Call or Email Julia or call for details: ( 209) 367-4901

Personalized Training for Dogs and Their People

2010-02-09T21:59:00.001-08:00

In-Home Coaching

Investment in good training is affordable. A well behaved pet is priceless.

Do you want your dog to: Stop jumping up, stop chewing, barking, and destructive behavior? Come when called? Stop stealing food, stop house soiling? Learn to listen and behave politely ?

I'll come to your home and personally coach you on how to get the results you want from your pet. I'll talk and walk you through every step, taking control where needed and then handing it back to you so you have the confidence to manage your own dog the way you want to.

You know your dog better than anyone. But you don't always know what to do to get him to listen to you. That's where I come in. With more than 22 years of experience training competition, service and pet and companion dogs, I bring a lot of tools to the project.

Call me to discuss the best plan to suit your needs. (209) 367-4901 or Email Julia.

How To Find The Dog Trainer For You

2009-11-30T17:33:00.000-08:00

Everybody needs a little professional help now and then, and pet ownership is no different. Books and videos can have good ideas, but they don't really tell you what to do if your dog doesn't respond the way the one in the book does. If you've tried these sources and are still having trouble, it might be wise to get some one-on-one with a real live trainer.

How do you know a good one from a bad one? Trainers say "The only thing two dog trainers can agree on is what a third one is doing wrong," which points out the many conflicting theories floating around each claiming to be the answer to all your doggy woes. Should you use a clicker? Treats vs toys? How about a choke chain, an electric collar or a head halter or no-jump harness? Massage Therapy? Anxiety wraps? If you listen to everyone, you'll probably just give up and go get a goldfish.

First, check local listings to find trainers within your area, so you can meet and talk with them. Ask for local references from their students and follow through. Ask veterinarians, groomers and other dog owners whom they trust, then call or visit the trainer directly.

They should be professional and willing to talk to you and ask you about your dog and your goals.

Most trainers have their own dogs and you should see how they interact with them. Is there a lot of yelling and threatening, or constant feeding of treats for every behavior? Do the dogs seem well adjusted and responsive or fearful and nervous? Do they have to wear special appliances or apparatus in order to behave?

Results speak louder than theories.

See what they have accomplished in the world of dogs. While you may not be interested in showing your dog in performance sports, such as Obedience Competition, someone who has earned titles in these venues has had to train to a much higher standard and may have some extra tricks in their bag.

It is fair to ask for some background and references, and accomplished trainers are happy to show you their awards.

Most importantly, see if they communicate well with you. Some trainers are great with dogs but no good at explaining to people what they are doing or how they can do it at home. Chose someone who communicates in a style you can relate to, someone with whom you are comfortable.

There is a flood of newly christened "trainers" coming out of big box pet stores who have very little actual experience, but lots of indoctrination and theories about dog behavior and suggest you can solve every problem with every dog with only treat reinforcement. While "+R" as it is known in the industry is a very powerful tool for teaching, it requires great patience and excellent timing, and most people tend to slip into luring rather than reinforcing and then don't understand why their dog's manners have not improved.

On the other end of the spectrum, there are those who insist the only way to teach a dog that "sit means sit" is to use an electric collar. While this kind of collar can be a useful training tool when thoughtfully employed, it is far from the only way. Each dog is different and good trainers can adapt.

Look for someone who has experience in many different styles of training and who can adapt that method to you and your dog. Theories are great as far as they go, but results are what you are after, and that result should include a trusting, well adjusted dog who is neither a constant beggar nor a cowering fearful captive. Good trainers are balanced trainers who know how to use lots of tools to get results.

What about franchises? In order to be a "certified" trainer within a franchise, you have to pay for the privilege and attend some short period of training, usually a few weeks, which you also pay for. Once your check has cleared, you are anointed as a professional trainer and can go out and offer your services under the franchise name. Don't be surprised if your expensive trainer has less time with dogs than you do, and has to consult a manual when working with your dog.

In home ? Private Lessons? Group Classes? Board and Train?

In-home training is the gold standard, but also the highest cost training. However, if you get a good trainer to come to your home and work with your dog, and you listen to what they tell you and put the training in practice you should have excellent results, as well as the support of the trainer in between visits. You'll save money and time on traveling back and forth ( they come to you) and just like most quality items, you get what you pay for.

Next on the scale is private lessons. Once you have decided on a trainer , book a private lesson to get started. You'll pay by the hour, and you should get at least one good solution to your dog's issue in that hour ( and probably more) so its pretty cost effective. At that point you and the trainer can decide if you would like to continue with private lessons or whether your dog could go into a Group Class.

In a group, you'll pay less per session, but you'll also get less individual attention. However if you have a pretty good handle on your dog and enjoy the group experience its a good way to go.

Don't be in a hurry to choose your trainer. You'll be developing a relationship with this person and you need to feel comfortable. Check them out, ask for references and contact them, and have a conversation about your goals. Then get busy and get some help so you and your pal can enjoy life together. A well trained dog gets to do so much more than an untrained dog.

Call (209) 367-4901 or email k9julie@earthlink.net

About Your Trainer

2009-11-05T22:10:00.000-08:00

Julia Priest has been training dogs for more than 24 years. She has excelled in schutzhund, tracking, and AKC obedience with her own dogs. A retired police K9 handler, she now works helping pet owners understand and control their dogs so that they can be happy companions.

"Training for competition hones a trainer's skills. You have to train to a much higher standard when you are being judged in the performance arena, and this carries through to pet dog training. When you've had to put it all on the line, you have to know your stuff." A nationally ranked trainer with more than 50 titles on more than a dozen dogs, Julia has the skill and experience to solve dog and puppy behavior problems and coach successful handlers.

Some accomplishments:

Trained and handled Police K9 both patrol and evidence
Earned Front and Finish Obedience Platinum Award of Excellence
Front and Finish Obedience Gold Award of Excellence
Master Sports medal in Gold from United Schutzhund Clubs of America
Earned AKC, ASCA and UScA Obedience, Tracking, and Schutzhund titles including CD CDX UD TD TDX Fh FH2 FH Champion, and IPO 1, 2 and 3 on multiple dogs
Bred and trained the German Shepherd Dog Club of America's Annual Training Achievement Award #1 Dam for 2008, 2009, and 2010 PAM Lark von Sontausen Schh3 Fh2 UDTX HT PT
2010 Nationally Ranked #1Grad Novice GSD, #10 Novice GSD with Highs in Trial from Novice and Open
Trained and titled three GSDCA Performance Award of Merit recipients
Represented the US at the FCI World Tracking Championship

Coaching Services

2009-11-05T10:46:00.000-08:00

You know your dog better than anyone But you don't always know what to do to get him to listen to you. That's where I come in. With more than 22 years of experience training competition, service and pet/companion dogs, I bring a lot of tools to the project.

I'll come to your home and personally coach you in how to get the results you want from your pet. I 'll talk and walk you through every step, taking control where needed and then handing it back to you so you have the confidence to manage your own dog the way you want to.

After an initial consultation, we will set up a program at your convenience and get your dog started on the road to good behavior!

Investment in good training is affordable. A well behaved pet is priceless.

FAQs

2009-11-04T12:24:00.000-08:00

Thank you for choosing me as your dog trainer.

I have found over the years that I have the same basic advice for almost every new client. Each trainer has protocols and methods they find successful so I will share some of mine. To get the most from your private lesson, it would be a good idea to take some notes, as most people find it hard to take in everything at once.

Before you come, make a list of the behaviors you’d like to address. It can be overwhelming when you get here and lots of times you forget t

o mention the door-bolting or ankle nipping that brought you here in the first place. Make a list of the ways in which you wish your dog would behave in a perfect world, and we’ll see if we can get you there.

Here are some tips and FAQs for you and your dog:

First, bring your dog or puppy hungry. Do not feed before coming, which will help with car sickness , and also make them more receptive to food rewards.

Do we use food in training?

Sometimes. Depends on the issue and the dog. Do I use food as a lure or bribe? No, I use it as a reinforcer, and I will show you the difference.

What kind of equipment should I bring?

Bring whatever collar and leash you normally use so I can judge how its working for you. If your dog has aggression problems, please let me know beforehand and use a slip chain type collar. Always bring your dog out of the car ON LEASH.

Bring a good supply of your dog’s favorite treats and let me know what kind of food you feed . I may make recommendations as to changes in feeding which seem inconsequential but actually make a huge difference in your relationship.

Why is feeding important?

When you feed, you should put the food down in front of your dog and allow him to eat undisturbed. If he does not eat all his food, do not leave it there for him to finish later. If he walks away from the dish, pick it up and do not replace it until the next scheduled meal time. Don’t wait 10 or 15 minutes, just pick it up if he walks away. Your dog will learn to eat what he gets when he get it, will value the food more, and will see you as someone in charge. It will also help regulate his output to have regular feeding times.

What kind of food should I feed?

That is your choice, but I will tell you that over the years I have become a dedicated raw feeder. This means my dogs get a diet of raw meat, bones and organs, as dogs were evolved to eat this, not corn, rice gluten, or other grains or carbs. If you do feed kibble, the better quality you can buy, the better your dog will do and the less you will have to clean up. With a raw diet, your cleanup is about 50-70 percent less than with kibble diets.

You can concoct your own diet from the store, but you need to be sure to supply a balance of calcium, phosphorus and other nutrients. For convenience, prepared frozen raw diets are available locally from www.dogs-n-more.com and www.excelk9diet.com.

Both offer excellent products and support and information on raw feeding.

What kinds of treats are good?

Most packaged dog treats from the grocery or pet store are more expensive per ounce than filet mignon, and are not healthy for your dog. You can do much better. If you read the package labels for these “treats” you will see they are made up of starch, byproducts and a lot of SUGAR in the form of corn syrup. In fact some of the supermarket dog treats have more sugar than kids’ cereals. Anything your dog likes can be a treat, but make it small — about the size of your little fingernail and soft foods are easier to use. String cheese, baby carrots, leftover chicken breast, microwaved liver bits, or anything you can think of (besides grapes, onions, or chocolate, all of which are toxic to dogs) can be a treat. Just remember to count the treats as part of the dog’s total intake for the day.

Should my dog sleep on the bed?

That depends. If you have a clear relationship with the dog and he sees you as the one in charge at all times, and he knows he must “ask” to get on the bed and promptly gets off when you tell him to without any resistance, then that’s your choice. If your dog challenges you, doesn’t listen to you or has ever threatened to bite, he should not have the privilege of sleeping on the bed or getting on the furniture. My competition dogs sleep on the bed, but they have earned the privilege.

You'll have a lot more questions, so make your list and bring it to your first lesson , and if you forget, email me!

Testimonials

2009-11-04T07:34:00.000-08:00

Our clients speak for themselves!

I've been meaning to email you about Rusty and how he has been doing since he finished his training. As you know, our main problem with Rusty was his inability to obey commands when he was excited. In addition, we were very concerned with Rusty running off when we opened doors or gates. WE ARE AMAZED WITH THE RESULTS!! In fact, I just returned from a 1 mile walk around and I had his leash off the entire time. He was very responsive and always came to me when I gave the "here" command to come and "check in." In addition, Rusty rarely bursts through doors anymore. Rusty waits patiently for his food and NEVER jumps on us or guests.

We were given your name by some friends and we couldn't be happier with the results. Thank you for giving us back the enjoyment of having a pet!!! We tell everyone we know about you and your services. -Jim and Athena Willis, with 3 year old Lab, Rusty

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We chose Julia's service over others because of her extensive experience and knowledge after we bought a 4 month old German shepherd and we needed some help with her obedience. Julia helped us learn how to handle our puppy and teach her the proper way. We would recommend or use her service again based on putting her training advice to work and seeing success and the way she helped teach us to better interact with our dog. - Rebecca Abreau

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I came to Julia for training with my Shih Tzu puppy, Sweetpea because my vet recommended her. Julia came to my house (!) and showed me what to do because I have never had a dog before. Julia gave me invaluable basic information about everything. I was able to attend some of her classes and they were also so helpful. Whenever I go away, Julia takes care of Sweetpea and Sweetpea loves her. My dog always has fun with Julia and her dogs. Julia is a wonderful person and a great trainer. I do not hesitate to endorse her. - Christy Hooper

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Julia helped us so much with Sophie. We rescued her at 8 months and Julia made the difference in every way. In 2005,she trained Sophie at her facility then helped us continue with correct human behaviors! Julia makes having a large dog a pleasure. We have boarded Sophie with Julia many times both for overnights and much longer periods. It is a treat to pick her up as she is perfectly trained once again. I have recommended Julia to many of my friends in need of help with their dogs. Julia is a highly skilled and patient dog-whisperer! - Polly, Dec.24, 2008

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I have two young high energy Beligian Malinois - Quetzal and Morocco. Julia made a difference in the first 10 minutes to gain control and direct their energy in a positive way. I've learned a lot about how to queue them up to do what I need them to. NILIF (Nothing in life is free) I've continued to work with Julia with positive results, and look forward to getting our BH and TD. Having two is a major challenge but with Julia's experience we are making progress. Thanks for the much needed help Julia. The more I get trained the better the dogs are doing. - Michael

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Julia did a great job with our Bulldog. He minds, is friendly to others, and is a joy to have as part of our family. Julia has been the perfect for trainer for our dog and for us. Our dog just loves when he gets to visit her. I would recommend her to anyone looking for quality dog training. - Michelle

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We have a year old Pug. Julia began working with him and mostly us, when he was about 4 months old. Her experience, expertise, training and suggestions got us through puppyhood. Our little Tucker still needs reminders on manners but without Julia's help, I'm sure he would be a rowdy, misbehaved (but loved) doggie. She gave us some great tips on having him the kitchen at meal time w/out begging and him lying on his bed until we finish our meal. He walks great on the leash. He behaves well when there are other animals around. We have boarded him with Julia on two occasions. When we brought him home he always seemed to be a little better behaved. Without a doubt I would recommend Julia for the training of your puppy or dog. You will enjoy your pet so much more.

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Our tracking has made a 180 since we were at your seminar. Work ethic/purpose has totally changed. The crookedness on the articles is not quite resolved but the tracking is so much better!! (And I actually enjoy it now...) - From Julia's Tracking seminar in New Mexico

Training Services

2009-10-30T18:36:00.000-07:00

In-Home Coaching: Your dog's "Personal Trainer"

Investment in good training is affordable. A well behaved pet is priceless.

If your dog is out of control and too much for you to get a handle on, let me make your life easier. I'll come to your home and personally coach you on how to get the results you want from your pet, or you can send him or her to stay with me for "Boarding School." I do the hard work, and fit you back together with your dog so you can enjoy him as the pet you want.. I'll talk and walk you through every step, taking control where needed and then handing it back to you so you have the confidence to manage your own dog the way you want to.

With more than 22 years of experience training competition obedience, service, pet and companion dogs, I bring a lot of tools to the project.

Do you want your dog to: Stop jumping up, stop chewing, barking, and destructive behavior? Come when called? Stop stealing food, stop house soiling? Listen and behave politely ?

Call me to discuss the best plan to suit your needs . (209) 367-4901 or Email Julia.

GROUP CLASSES: Not your average training class

Smaller, more intensive classes with more individual attention from an expert

Coming Soon: Tracking Class

Let me show you how to make the most of your dog's wonderful nose. Introduction tot he sport of tracking. With experience in FCI (" Schutzhund" style) , AKC sport tracking, as well as Police K9 and SAR tracking, I can show you how to develop the teamwork for success. From first time beginners to competitors and professionals needing coaching, come see me and "Lets go tracking!" As soon as the weather cools and the foxtails are gone, classes will start.

Baby Puppy Class: Learning how to learn. Setting boundaries and teaching skills with positive reinforcement . Puppy Socialization and constructive play. For puppies under 16 weeks Learning to walk on a leash, come when called, sit and lie down. Puppies 12 weeks to 24 weeks. Six sessions $120

Senior Puppy Class

Introduction to grown up manners. Walking on leash, coming away from distractions, , go to place, polite greeting, and stays with distractions. Puppies over 16 weeks and small dogs without aggression issues

Canine Good Citizen: Basic manners for every pet with the ten skills of the AKC CGC test as the goal. All ages welcome. Six sessions $120.

Call (209) 367-4901 for dates or Email Julia

Beginner Novice: Train for your first AKC obedience title. Formal heeling on lead, recall to front , sit stay and sit for exam as well as ring procedure and some fun games and challenges will get you ready to show your stuff! Wednesdays 6 p.m.

6 weeks $145

Intro to Dogsports: Learn Skills and get a quick introduction to competition obedience, Rally-O, Schutzhund, Agility and more. Try one on for size and get started in sports you and your dog can play together. Dogs over 6 months which have completed a Puppy, CGC or Teamwork Class.

By Arrangement

. Call (209) 367-4901 or Email Julia to sign up.

PUPPY PLAY DATES

For dogs and puppies who have trained with me either in class or individually.

Informal play and socialization drop-in. Like a dog park, only safer with a resident trainer on hand to help. Mostly just healthy play and fun for the dogs and relaxed socializing for their people. Don't feed before session, but bring treats for your dog. Toys provided. By Arrangement

Schutzhund Obedience

2009-08-01T20:26:00.000-07:00

Julia and her dog Nick competed at the GSDCA Nationals in Colorado for the Working Dog Sport Championship and placed second in obedience, 4th overall.To see more sport and working dogs visit von Sontausen German Shepherd Dogs

Training Your Dog to be a K9 Actor

2009-07-20T13:30:00.000-07:00

Trained by Julia, German shepherd dog "Betsie" appears in a training video for the California DMV. With training your dog can learn to do lots of fun things, but remember, you have to be 16 to get a license, and dog years don't count!

Terms and Tips

2009-01-21T11:18:00.000-08:00

Everything goes more smoothly when we have clear communication. In our training I use several terms which have specific meanings. Just so everyone is on the same page, here is what I mean:

Command: What you are asking the dog to do, as in" Sit" or "Stay"

Praise: in a calm voice, telling the dog you like what you see, keep it up. Words like " Good boy, nice job, good ! etc., are all praise and should mean to continue the behavior until released. So, "Good boy" does not mean "you can get up now." It means keep up the good work.

Release: A word or sound that means "OK, you're done!" you can get up and do whatever you want until I tell you something else to do. Ordinarily you should release the dog into you, to come and get a pet or praise. If you back up when you release the dog, he will naturally come toward you to get this attention.

Marker: This is a particular sound or word that means only one thing: "You did exactly what I want and I am going to give you the reward you are thinking about ( such as a cookie or a ball or access to something he wants like going outside.) Some people use a clicker, which is fine, but you have to have it with you and have your hands free to use it. I like to use a word, "Yes!". This word is not used to mean anything else, and always means "You did it, you get the prize."
Its a little tricky at first to learn how to use a marker, but if you do, your training will progress many times faster than without it.

The flip side of a reward marker, is a "No reward marker" Which is a word that means "You blew it. No treat for you." It is never said in an angry tone, its simply information to let the dog know where he made a mistake, the same way you would say "oops!" to a youngster you were trying to teach something. They don't make mistakes to be bad, they just don't get all the rules yet. That's your job to teach them.

Remember, every exercise has a beginning, a middle and an end. You have to be fair and let them know when the exercise is over or they will make up their own rules! And the number one thing to remember? Don't just concentrate on catching your dog making a mistake. Look for places where he tries and does something right and be sure to let him know how pleased you are with him. If you pay more attention to him when he is doing good things, he'll start doing more good things.

Training Schedules and Options

2008-10-26T23:39:00.000-07:00

GROUP OBEDIENCE CLASS

CGC (Level I ) Class : 6 weeks covers all the aspects of the AKC Canine Good Citizen test (CGC). Basic manners, polite leash walking, stays, sit, come, down and accepting handling are covered, along with socialization with other puppies and dogs in an enclosed training area. $90 per dog. All ages are welcome, but puppies must have had their parvo and distemper vaccinations and be at least 12 weeks old. Sign up with Galt Parks and Rec (209) 366-7180

CUSTOM IN-HOME TRAINING

Personalized sessions in the comfort of your own home with custom training focused on behavior problems and manners such as jumping on people, door-bolting , housebreaking, to excessive barking and everything in between. Solve most problems in a few sessions starting at $80 an hour. Lesson packages available. Call to schedule an appointment with your dog's "Personal Trainer "at a time convenient for you. (209) 367-4901

BOARD AND TRAIN

I'll put an excellent foundation of good manners and obedience on your dog or puppy. Recall ( come when called) heel on leash, stay, wait and down stay in the house are taught. Your dog will stay with me 3-4 weeks and receive training, exercise and socialization. When training is complete, your dog will be reintegrated into your family with lessons and follow up, and you may return any time for refresher lessons. Call for more information and quote (209) 367-4901.

PRIVATE LESSONS

Intensive one on one personal instruction to show you how to handle and shape your dog into the companion you want him to be. For owners wanting competition obedience performance or pet dog training at a higher level. $60 per hour or $35 a half hour. Schedule some time for you and your dog to make great strides together. Call (209) 367-4901 or e-mail k9julie@earthlink.net

Socialization: Puppy Job One

2008-10-04T13:39:00.001-07:00

Unfortunately, many pet owners get the impression from their veterinarians that they should not take their puppies anywhere until they have all of their shots, usually not until 16 weeks or later. However, this is a critical socialization period, and by leaving puppy at home, you miss many chances to teach him to be comfortable with other dogs and people. While it is important to complete the vaccination series for the two most serious diseases that affect puppies, distemper and parvovirus, it is every bit as important to "inoculate" your puppy against the number one ailment that lands dogs in shelters: lack of socialization and training.

Dogs which have been well socialized and introduced to people as creatures to respect and defer to, and which feel no threat from other dogs are nicer to be around, easier to train, and tend to stay in their homes much longer than dogs that miss this vital experience. The earlier and more, the better.

How do you balance socialization with safety?

Do not take a young puppy to dog parks or places where large numbers of dogs may congregate until after their complete series of vaccinations.
Don't put a 10 week old on a leash and drag him around the neighborhood. Don't leave your puppy in the front yard where roaming dogs can come in contact with him.
Do visit friends who have safe, older vaccinated dogs and have monitored "play dates" in their homes.

Do take the puppy to the shopping center or the pet store, and allow him to ride in the cart if the store permits. Don't put him on the floor or let him "shop" for toys by mouthing them as you don’t know what dogs may have done this prior.
Do bring him to your child’s school after he has all his shots as part of teaching children how to treat puppies. "Gently, gently” is the key.

Just hanging out with your own family and any other dogs you may have does not count as socialization. Your puppy needs to meet and feel comfortable with many other dogs and people outside your home.

A note on dog parks in general:

They can be a fine place to visit with an older trained dog that has a reliable recall and does not have issues with other dogs. They can be a terrible place to take an untrained dog or a puppy, as unfortunately many people who do not train or control their dogs frequent these parks. Their dogs tend to become territorial and may start fights or intimidate or injure your puppy. A bad experience here can undo all the good you have done. Just be aware of what dogs are there and if there are more than five or six, or if any seem overtly aggressive or rowdy, skip the experience.

Once puppy has had the basic shot series, arrange to attend a puppy kindergarten or socialization class. These classes emphasize safe play and socialization and may introduce obedience skills like sit and down, all done with positive reinforcement. Its a great way to start your puppy on the path to enjoying learning. More formal training can and should come later, but the first few months ( from 8-20 weeks) are so important when learning how to relate to others.
Be creative and take opportunities where you find them. A package delivery person comes to your house and seems friendly? Ask them if they mind meeting your pup. Use a leash to keep the puppy's feet on the ground and reward with treats as he accepts the friendly stranger. I do not allow other people to feed my dog, but I don't mind doling out goodies myself. Most people love to meet puppies, and the more kind, friendly people your dog meets as a puppy, the more social confidence he will have as an adult.

Remember, properly raising a dog is much more than providing food an veterinary care. Early socialization and training are essential to turning out a great partner, whether for sport, work, or just companionship. Getting it done should be on your "must do" list, and checking it off it takes you a big step closer to being a responsible dog owner.

Get With The Program — NILIF

2008-04-14T01:09:00.000-07:00

Sometimes my job as a dog trainer is challenging, but other times I think it is just so simple. If owners could understand and adopt the Nothing In Life Is Free ( "NILIF") program, I imagine that 90 percent of their dog behavior problems would go away. That said, like most simple plans, the success is in the execution.

The NILIF program has been around for many years, and while no one is quite sure who labeled it that or codified it, there are many versions floating around the Internet.
They all share a common tenet: your dog doesn't get anything without offering something in exchange. No free lunch. No room service. No massages on demand.

Does this mean you can't treat or pet or cuddle your dog? Absolutely not. It means you have these things available to give as rewards to your dog and you can use that exchange program to control his behavior so that it suits you.

We are not talking here about the "dominance model" in which some people believe your dog sees you as an "alpha dog" and behaves out of submission knowing you can overpower him. I am pretty sure after all these years that my dogs know I am not one of them. But they do know that I hold the key to all that is desirable. Not only tangible things like food, toys, and treats, but access to desired things like play, swimming, going in or out, touching me or anything else they may want or need. They learn that to get these things they need to offer something to me.

To establish a relationship with your dog you need to make things clear to him by your actions. Unfortunately we can't write them a note or show them a video; we have to demonstrate what we mean and want. The happiest arrangement is a quid pro quo where your dog understands he has to give to get. What does he have to do? That's up to you. An easy offering would be to sit, facing you, and to look at you. That's not asking a lot, but it is powerful in its message. If you simply give the dog everything it wants whenever it wants it, it has no reason to do anything for you. The notion that dogs "want to please us" is warm and fuzzy, but the truth is dogs want to please themselves, and if we show them they can get things they want by pleasing us, then they will do those things.

To institute this plan, first take a look at all the things your dog gets from you and the things he wants or likes. Maybe he likes to be petted. He likes to eat, to have a drink when he is thirsty, and to get treats. He likes to go for a walk, to get on the sofa, to play ball. Maybe he likes his belly scratched or to play tug. He likes to go outside. To come back inside.

The common factor here is that you control access to all these things. You do not have to deliver any of them without getting something from your dog first.

Whether your dog is shy and nervous, or pushy and dominant, this system works, because it makes very clear who is in charge. Shy dogs feel more comfortable when someone else is clearly in charge, and dominant dogs have to take what they get because there is no confrontation or excuse for a physical fight. You want your dinner? Sit. No sit, no room service. This isn't a hotel, and I am not your butler.

You can use any behavior that your dog knows to do on cue, such as sit or lie down, but the deal is, he must do that thing before you give him what he wants. Asking for "speak" is probably not the best choice because the dog will then bark whenever it wants something and that could get annoying. But anything else could work, even fetching a favorite toy to use as as "currency." But "sit" is the easiest and most often used trade item.

Does he often come up and nudge you under the arm to be petted? If you have mindlessly obliged, without meaning to, you have given him power by obeying his demand for attention. And you thought you were just giving him a nice pet.

When he does this now, simply withhold the touch he craves and tell him to "sit." As soon as he complies, give him a nice scratch or ear rub and tell him what a good dog he is. If he does not sit, ignore him.

If you are sitting and he comes up to put his feet in your lap, stand up. You don't have a lap when you are standing up. He must ask permission first by sitting.

He wants to go out the door? Ask for "sit" and when he does, open the door and tell him"OK!" No sit, no doorman.

If you think about it you'll come up with lots of ways to reward him for nice behavior, and you will no longer serve him mindlessly. This will drastically change his attitude about how things are run around your house and who, in fact makes the mortgage payment, and pays the food and vet bills.

Controlling dogs does not need to involve loud angry commands and it certainly does not require any neck grabbing and rolling them on their backs in an attempt to emulate a wolf. First of all, wolves don't actually do that, and second of all, news flash: your dog can tell you aren't a wolf. Or a dog either.

Be creative, calm and consistent and you'll enjoy a more harmonious household. Just repeat to yourself and then to your dog: "Nothing in life is free."

copyright 2008 Julia Priest

Let Me Show You How To Walk The Dog!

2008-04-10T16:36:00.000-07:00

If you have gone to a group obedience class where they tell you to gruffly shout "Heel!" at your dog, march off and give a mighty yank on the choke chain, you may recall that it wasn't particularly helpful. Even dogs that eventually become subdued enough after several weeks at class rarely carry the docility over to the street, and still pull when they are out and about.

The other side effect of this method is that you end up with a very sore arm, especially if you have a big, strong dog, and the more you yank, the more he pulls until you both hate the thought of "walkies."

The dog wants to get wherever you are going, so you need to show him that the way to get there is by going your way. The method I will explain takes a little while to master at first, but really works, and if you will invest a little time teaching him, you can both enjoy your walks.For the purposes of this exercise, we don't care if the dog is at heel, just that he doesn't pull on the leash. This is helpful for going for a leisurely walk where the dog can investigate and enjoy the scenery. Teaching the dog specifically to maintain a position near your left foot ( "heel") is a different requirement and is taught separately.

Make sure your dog is wearing a snug-fitting cloth or leather buckle collar. I don't recommend the ones with quick release "Fastex" clasps for this exercise, since they can pull apart.

For a very large strong dog with a small person, a prong collar is very helpful. It is much more humane than a choke collar, but must be properly fitted to work right. Buy the lightest weight one that will suit your dog. I have not seen a dog yet, unless it is crossed with grizzly bear at needs the large heavy size. Even most Akitas and Malamutes can usually use the medium size links, and the small links are fine when you add enough of them for length for most dogs with shorter hair.

The best leash to use for a large dog is a medium width ( about 5/8 inch) strong leather or double stitched nylon lead about 6 feet long. Smaller dogs can use a harness or a flat collar and lighter leash. Chain leashes are dangerous and can injure you and your dog. A retractable Flexi leash is only to be used on an already trained dog.

Technique and position are the key here, not pure strength. If you hold the leash so that your arm is outstretched from your body, you will be off balance, and the dog will find it easier to pull. Walk at your normal pace, with your hands hanging naturally at your sides. No need to hold your hand up in the air. Its not about how long the leash is, its about how loose the leash is. You just need a length that is comfortable for you but not long enough to drag on the ground. Bunch up any excess in your hand and just walk.

Carry a pocket full of small treats, and start out on your walk. The dog will pull at first, because that is his habit, but this time, when he does, it won't get him anywhere.

When he pulls and makes the leash tight, just back up in your tracks. Don't yell or yank, just maintain the tension he has put in the leash and walk straight back in the opposite direction. Just keep going as though you had someone by the sleeve and were trying to keep them from walking off a cliff. This part is crucial, and is done by feel: As soon as— and I mean the instant—you feel the dog give to the leash, or put any slack in it at all, start forward again and continue the walk. You don't need to say a word; the leash will do the talking.

Once in a while you may entice him to come back to you near your left side and give him a small treat before starting again. If your timing is good, don't be surprised if he decides hanging out by your side is more appealing than playing "sled dog" down the street.

The key to this method is letting him see that it is his responsibility to put slack in the leash:
He took the slack out by pulling, and he has to put it back in before he gets to go forward.

You must be patient. He will not walk backward indefinitely with a tight leash. He will do something to change it, and when he does, go forward, because that is what he really wants to do. There is no point in giving him a command or yelling at him. Actions speak much louder than words, especially when it comes to animals. Later, when he has gotten the idea, you can put words to it like "walkies" or "let's go" to the behavior.

This is foundation work. Like the foundation of a house, if you take the time to do it right, it will last, and you won't have to do it again.

Copyright 2008 Julia Priest